Novel misos shape distinct microbial ecologies: opportunities for flavourful sustainable food innovation

Abstract Fermentation is resurgent around the world as people seek healthier, more sustainable, and tasty food options. This study explores the microbial ecology of miso, a traditional Japanese fermented paste, made with novel regional substrates to develop new plant-based foods. Eight novel miso varieties were developed using different protein-rich substrates: yellow peas, Gotland lentils, and fava beans (each with two treatments: standard and nixtamalisation), as well as rye bread and soybeans. The misos were produced at Noma, a restaurant in Copenhagen, Denmark. Samples were analysed with biological and technical triplicates at the beginning and end of fermentation. We also incorporated in this study six samples of novel misos produced following the same recipe at Inua, a former affiliate restaurant of Noma in Tokyo, Japan. To analyse microbial community structure and diversity, metabarcoding (16S and ITS) and shotgun metagenomic analyses were performed. The misos contain a greater range of microbes than is currently described for miso in the literature. The composition of the novel yellow pea misos was notably similar to the traditional soybean ones, suggesting they are a good alternative, which supports our culinary collaborators’ sensory conclusions. For bacteria, we found that overall substrate had the strongest effect, followed by time, treatment (nixtamalisation), and geography. For fungi, there was a slightly stronger effect of geography and a mild effect of substrate, and no significant effects for treatment or time. Based on an analysis of metagenome-assembled genomes (MAGs), strains of S. epidermidis differentiated according to substrate. Carotenoid biosynthesis genes in these MAGs appeared in strains from Japan but not from Denmark, suggesting a possible gene-level geographical effect. The benign and possibly functional presence of S. epidermidis in these misos, a species typically associated with the human skin microbiome, suggests possible adaptation to the miso niche, and the flow of microbes between bodies and foods in certain fermentation as more common than is currently recognised. This study improves our understanding of miso ecology, highlights the potential for developing novel misos using diverse local ingredients, and suggests how fermentation innovation can contribute to studies of microbial ecology and evolution.